Australians and Hydra

Peter Finch 
(1916-1977)


Where did Australia's richest woman Janet Holmes a Court host a wedding recently for her son? Where did legendary author George Johnston write his award winning trilogy of Australians in exile? Where did Sidney Nolan pay for hospitality by painting doors? Where did Tasmania's most famous export, the actor Peter Finch chill out in the 1950's? Where did Dame Zara and PM Harold Holt holiday in the sun?
The answer is HYDRA, yes, like the mythological monster of many heads. It is a small island in Greece. George Johnston was the first Australian to discover it. He went there because it was cheap, peaceful and beautiful, the perfect place to write his novels and raise his family. There were only three other foreigners living on the island. He bought a house in the main town and friends like Finch and Nolan followed. Aussies have been going to Hydra ever since. 

They found it easily enough as Hydra is the third stop on the steamer ferry from Piraeus. Now we travel by high speed hydrofoils that zap you here in just over an hour. 
 
 

Author, Charmian Clift and her eldest son Martin Johnston (1947-1990) on Hydra in the 1950's

Here is what poet and songwriter Leonard Cohen had to say in a 1980 Interview :

         "I guess it was from '60 to maybe '65. Hydra. The Johnstons were there. There were just a few
         foreigners there in those days. The Johnstons were central figures. They were older. They
         were doing what we all wanted to do which was to write and to make a living out of writing.
         They were very wonderful, colorful, hospitable people. They helped me settle in. They gave
         me a table and chair and bed and really helped me out.'
Only a few Australians live on the island today but thousands visit every year. Some go all the way and rent beautiful island homes for a month or two and some just visit for a day. George Johnston's talented wife Charmian Clift was was born at Kiama, New South Wales and wrote more about Hydra than her husband did. Charmian's autobiographical novels "Peel Me a Lotus" and "Mermaids Singing" are highly recommended reading for anyone visiting Hydra. She comes close to describing the indefinable quality in the air here that gives rise to heightened pleasures. Hydra is also a wellspring of creativity and Australian writers and artists still drift in and out of the island, seeking inspiration.Creative Australians are just the more coulourful of the many international talents which have passed through Hydra. Leonard Cohen wrote his best early poetry and songs on Hydra and still has a house here.
 
The sea and the stone 

Renowned Australian restauranteurs Gary and Pamela Ashford with Michel Le Goff at Vlychos, Hydra 1988

To the Johnstons, everything they experienced in Hydra was imbued with a magical quality. Here is George's description of watching his wife swim from his 1969 novel "Clean Straw For Nothing".

"Cressida was far out on the other side of the bay, breast-stroking slowly, the mask on the top of her head, searching among the grey and yellow rocks that formed one of the ox-horn tips of the cove. On the other tip that faced it there was a whitewashed shrine to St. Nicholas, hardly bigger than a privy, shaped and glistening like a frosted cake. Where Cressida swam the submerged rocks seen through the glassy water were just as detailed as the rocks above baking in the sun, there was the illusion of levitation, she floated in the clear blue air."
Come and discover the Johnston's Hydra : its clear waters, the architeture and history; the people and its charm. 
 
 
 
Portrait of the Australian artist Yiannis Wolfgang Kardamatis, painted by  Michel Le Goff 1991 in Hydra

Collection of 
The Art Gallery of New South Wales, 
Sydney 
1.5 x 1m (59 x 39.5in.) 
oil and marble dust on canvas 
(Hydra, 1991) 
Kardamatis went to Australia as a child. He was an original member of the Sydney Group of painters during the second world war. He has lived in Hydra since the 1950''s.

see also :
John Lucas : Martin Johnston and the matter of elegy
 

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